Freemasonry & Fashion
This article is taken from the March 2019 issue of Fraternal Review titled, “Art & Freemasonry”.
When I was in the process of editing this issue, I happened to come across a video of a talk by Christopher Hodapp, who mentioned Masonic references appearing in the work of Jay-Z, Rihanna, and Lady Gaga. Freemasons aren’t generally aware of this influence, noted Brother Hodapp. But, he said, “we had better learn and learn fast because for an increasing wave of new men we no longer control our image. The culture is doing that for us.”
Let’s look at a few examples of Masonic references in contemporary culture over recent years.
In 2012, an ad for Grammy-winning singer-songwriter Erykah Badu’s Kuala Lumpur concert caused a minor uproar. The ad showed a photo of Badu with the Arabic word for God painted on her torso. Described as a “tattoo,” this sign drew all of the attention, but it was not the only one. Also painted onto Badu’s torso were the Hebrew letters He and Dalet and, more surprisingly, the Royal Arch Triple Tau.
If you visit the singer-songwriter’s site today and click the “BaduWorld” link, you’ll be presented with an illustration of a clenched fist (a symbol of Black, and perhaps female, empowerment) and tattooed arm. Besides a portrait of Badu herself, the tattoos include an ancient Egyptian scarab beetle and an eye in a triangle (or two overlapping triangles or zigzags that are reminiscent of African tribal design and the Square and Compasses).
A New Age-type fusion of religions, Black empowerment, and allusions—intentional or not—to Freemasonry may strike you as a strange mixture. But, Badu is far from alone in her choice of imagery and inspiration.
In 2010, rapper Ricky Ross released his “Free Mason” single. Featured on the single was Jay Z, who, only the previous year, had provoked a minor media storm when a photo of him appeared wearing a sweatshirt with the phrase “Do what thou wilt” (a phrase associated with the occultist and irregular Mason Aleister Crowley).
Then in 2018, there was again more debate and discussion when another major Hip Hop artist released two sweatshirts for sale on his website. This artist was Nas, who, like Jay Z, had grown up in New York. One of the sweatshirts was printed with a large All-Seeing Eye of God on the back. The other was even more curious. Printed on the front was a pyramid with a sword (an image associated with the Shriners), a star and crescent (associated with Islam), a number 7 in a circle (associated with the spiritual and nationalist movement of the Five Percent Nation), and two hands in a grip (associated with Freemasonry).
While the mixing of religion, spirituality, and Masonic symbols goes back to at least the early twentieth century among the Black community of America, with the emergence of Moorish Science, we also find a similar fusion elsewhere in popular culture.
The contemporary streetwear brand Black Scale has likewise borrowed imagery from Freemasonry, occultism, and Islam. In 2015, the brand even released a snapback hat with a Square and Compasses with a B (for Black Scale) at the center. Other Masonic-like imagery has appeared on the brand’s T-shirts as well as on a men’s ring.
High fashion designers have also been inspired by Freemasonry and associated imagery. On display at the Museum of the United Grand Lodge of England is a shirt designed by French haute couture and ready-to-wear designer Jean Paul Gaultier. On the left and right of the garment is an Eye in a pyramid. They appear above two hands, with small planetary signs on them, suggesting palm reading.
Notably, very similar images were used in Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2017 collection. Down the catwalk, the McQueen brand sent models in sheer dresses embroidered and beaded with images of a sun and moon, stars, keys suspended from string (which can be found on the Entered Apprentice tracing board in Great Britain), and two hands. (One of the hands had a diamond shape at the center, reminiscent of the Odd Fellows symbol of a hand with a heart or —more rarely—an eye at the center of the palm.)
Whether we like such use of Masonic symbolism, the fact is that cultures influence each other. That is how it should be. Now very much alive in today’s culture, Masonic references are appearing in popular music and fashion—the cutting edge of the culture. As Brother Hodapp has said, we should be aware of this. But, I would add, not solely because we are interested in Freemasonry, but because, as Freemasons, we should be interested in culture.